The Rough Guide to Colombia by Stephen Keeling

Author:Stephen Keeling
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780241246801
Publisher: Rough Guides

San Andrés

Colombia’s very own Caribbean island of sandy cays, reggae bars and spectacular azure waters rich in marine life, San Andrés is a full-on resort destination for middle-class Colombians, especially busy during the long school holidays (December to January), Easter, and in July and August. Diving off San Andrés is absolutely sensational; the water is warm all year round, the visibility is (mostly) spectacular and the reefs are some of the richest and most beautiful in the Caribbean.

Though the Raizal here are now a minority thanks to immigration from the mainland, they continue to cling to a very distinctive Afro-Caribbean culture – everyone speaks Spanish of course, but the locals also speak a Creole that has more in common with English, albeit with a West Indian twang. Beyond the all-inclusive resorts that dominate tourism on the island, parts of the interior remain surprisingly rustic, studded with old wooden houses with Antillean-style verandas. Indeed, two competing images loom large over modern San Andrés – Bob Marley, adopted saint of the local Raizal population (along with all things Jamaican, seemingly), and Johnny Depp, fictional hero of the Pirates of the Caribbean movie franchise and a symbol of everything “pirate” to the local tourism industry. It’s a bizarre combination, certainly unique in Colombia.

Most accommodation is concentrated in San Andrés Town, the capital – a busy whirl of modern concrete buildings, duty-free shops and careering motorbikes. Visitors usually take at least one day to tour the island, sticking to the 30km coastal ring-road, though there are a few places where you can head inland. The most popular transport these days are souped-up golf carts , but you can also rent scooters and small cars. Travelling by public bus is possible, but not especially convenient if you want to see the whole island. Note, however, that the best beaches and snorkelling can be found on Johnny Cay, Cayo Bolívar and Acuario, which are only accessible by boat – much of the main island’s coastline is rocky, devoid of sand and offers only mediocre snorkelling.

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